“Só depois do carnaval!”
Translation: “Only after Carnaval!”
An expression that can be applied to a multitude of tasks on a to-do list; nothing is so important that it can’t wait until after the most anticipated week of the Brazilian calendar.
The festival takes place in the middle of southern-hemisphere Summer, usually around February, and serves as a (literally) glittering example of Brazil’s expressive, optimistic and welcoming people and culture. Now well-known worldwide, the national holiday brings together locais and gringos alike to celebrate the splendor of being alive.
The result of a cultural melting pot, Brazilian Carnaval cannot be traced back to any one tradition or custom; its earliest possible origin is loosely based on greco-roman celebrations in homage to Bacchus, god of libation and pleasure, and later Christian European festivities as a final celebration before Ash Wednesday. Through time, the festivities developed proprietary music and carefree atmosphere, both attributed to Brazil's abundant African culture. Today, it is impossible to find any Carnaval celebrations that are identical- each one varies regionally in their customs.
There is no “right” way of celebrating, but we are partial to the jeitinho Carioca: this is our essential guide to Carnaval in Rio.
Música
The musical landscape for Carnaval is constantly evolving; Samba and Marchinhas take center stage, with all who celebrate being encouraged to dançar along to songs specifically composed for that week in February. Axé and Frevo, hailing from the states of Bahía and Pernambuco, are vital to any good Carnaval; more contemporary styles like Funk, Sertanejo and Forró have also begun entering the space. Regardless of dance abilities and rhythm, the important part is that no one is standing still.
Fantasias
A tradition passed down from Florentine masked Carnivals, harlequins, pierrots, and medieval festivities of when peasants would dress up as kings- a vital rule is that one must never dress according to norm. Think of the dress code as: Halloween, in 35℃, and covered in glitter. It is imperative to never take oneself too seriously- let loose and be someone else for the day(s) you can.
Desfiles e Blocos
Combine the músicas and fantasias, and the results are desfiles and blocos.
Desfiles are massive parades held by Samba schools that prepare year-long for their turn on the passarela. In our beloved Rio de Janeiro, this is a highly respected event held in the Sambadrome Marquês da Sapucaí; they feature hundreds of percussionists, costumes, floats and the famous Rainhas da Bateria, or ‘queens of the drums’, elected every year by their respective schools to lead the charge down the runway.
Blocos are the informal, incredibly popular block parties that take over every street in the city. Accessible to all, these are led by a trio elétrico, a type of vehicle built especially for Carnaval, carrying massive sound systems and musical performers while travelling along predestined routes, gathering crowds on foot behind them. A tradition dating back to 1889, there are blocos Cariocas that have existed for over 100 years, and are by far the most popular part of Carnaval, often garnering more than 1 million revellers.
Carioca, Vamos ao Carnaval!
